risotto at home

November 5, 2008

Risotto is a creamy, hearty, and incredibly satisfying dish that is a perfect antidote to a chilly fall evening. It seems to me that there is a bit of mystique surrounding cooking risotto at home. Yes, it does require attention, but not constant attention. Yes, you have to stir, but not constantly stir. Yes, there is a bit of technique involved, but it’s really not that difficult. My advice: if you haven’t whipped up a delicious meal of risotto at home, it is definitely worth giving it a try.

Before you jump into your risotto-making, it is best to start with a simple recipe that will allow you to focus on technique and get the hang of things (kind of like how my mom had me learn to drive in the empty church parking lot before we took to the road). Don’t worry, this classic risotto recipe is delicious and perfect in its simplicity. If you are anxious to add ingredients we’ll be jazzing things up with another risotto recipe later this week.

Keys to Risotto Success:

Rice - My choice for top-notch risotto is Canaroli (I buy from Lotus Foods). Arborio is another popular choice (and available in most markets).

Liquid - The cooking liquid serves two purposes; it plumps/cooks the rice and also adds the flavor. Thus it is important to use a quality, homemade stock that will incorporate the best flavors into the risotto (check out this post on feelgood eats for an easy way to make chicken stock). Canned/boxed stocks are heavier on the sodium and lighter on the rich stock flavor (go for a boxed organic stock in a pinch). A better option is to find a local Italian or specialty deli/market that sells store-made stocks, which are higher in quality - these can be frozen and thawed quickly. When cooking, make sure the broth is hot. Usually a little bit of wine starts the cooking process; this gives a bit of an acidic bite and adds to a complexity of flavor.

Patience - Don’t dump in too much liquid at a time. The key is to create an easy braise, allowing the rice to slowly accept the liquid. The rice and broth should bubble gentle throughout the cooking process; if the heat is too high, the liquid will be absorbed too fast and the result will not be creamy but instead more like a mush.

Stirring - It is not necessary to stir constantly, so don’t imagine yourself chained to the stove for 20 minutes. What the stirring motion does is help the rice release starch, resulting in risotto’s signature creaminess (without the cream). It also prevents the rice on the bottom from being scorched. So stir frequently about every 2 minutes or so, and stir with a broad stroke, sweeping the rice off the bottom of the pot. I usually perform other tasks in the kitchen while the risotto cooks (so I am close enough to be attentive but not attached).

Cooking Time - This will depend on the age of the rice, the type of pot, and the heat. It is one of those “it’s ready when it’s ready” situations, but usually it takes less than 20 minutes to prepare. In the words of one of my favorite cookbook authors, Biba Caggiano: “During the last few minutes of cooking you need to watch the risotto like a newborn baby - very carefully.” As the risotto finishes, taste frequently as it gets to the point of tenderness but still retains its texture. As the risotto nears being finished, take the time to adjust any seasonings (add more butter/Parmigiano-Reggiano as needed) or remove the risotto from the heat because it is ready to enjoy.

I’ll finish with a quote from Paul Bertolli an alum of Chez Panisse and author of Chez Panisse Cooking:

  • “There is one point at which risotto is done; when all the elements conspire in a union of flavor, texture, and consistency, a timeless moment in cooking.”

**If you have any risotto tips and tricks that you would like to share, please drop a note in the comment section below.

Simple Risotto
(serves 4-6)

  • 6 cups chicken stock
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup onion, finely minced
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • sea salt
  • 2 cups Aborio or Carnoroli rice
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Heat the broth in a medium saucepan and keep warm over medium heat.

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and a pinch of sea salt and cook, stirring until the onion has softened, about 3-5 minutes. Add the rice and stir quickly so the fat coats the rice and it begins to lightly fry, about 1-2 minutes. Add the wine and keep stirring until it is almost reduced.

Ladle about 1/2 cup of the simmering chicken broth into the rice (or enough to barely cover the rice). Cook and stir frequently until the broth has almost been completely absorbed. Repeat the process of adding stock, stirring, and allowing the rice to absorb the liquid for about 15 minutes, keeping your heat at a steady simmer.

At this point the rice should be nearly finished. Stir in the the remaining butter and the Parmigiano-Reggiano (reserving about 1/4 cup for garnish). Stir well. Taste the rice to determine if it is done; it should be tender but firm to the bite (al dente, not mush). If the rice has not finished cooking, continue to add broth in the same manner described above. If you run out of broth, substitute with hot water.

Enjoy as soon as possible - risotto is best when it goes right to the table.

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fennel & chili risotto
11.07.08 at 4:08 am

{ 7 comments }

Dana 11.05.08 at 8:38 am

Great post! My tip is for preparing risotto in advance (helps with my personal chef business or making it for a dinner party).

You can make the risotto as you describe until it is about 3/4 of the way done (i.e. the rice is still crunchy but not raw). Also, save the last minute additions like seasoning, Parmesan, butter, or quick-cooking vegetables. Then you can allow it to cool either in the pot, or spread out on a baking sheet to make the process go faster. Once you are ready to serve it, back into the pot it goes, and you resume adding stock and stirring, adding the final flavor components, until it is done! I’ve done this many times and it works really well.

Sue Bette 11.05.08 at 4:24 pm

Hi Dana - thanks for the tips on prepping risotto in advanced, I am looking forward to giving it a try!

Tiffany 11.05.08 at 5:36 pm

I’m embarrassed to admit that I just made risotto at home for the first time last weekend. After doing it once, I am hooked and I can’t wait to try new combinations. Thanks for all the great tips.

Chefsquire 11.05.08 at 7:10 pm

My risotto always seems to take closer to 40 minutes! I can’t really figure it out, but it always tastes good. My favorite is with lemon, asparagus, and thyme (it was my first blog recipe). I also love Ina Garten’s butternut squash risotto.

Vanessa 11.05.08 at 7:39 pm

I completely second your choice of carnaroli, and I use Vialone Nano when I can find it. Arborio has a different starch balance, and although a lot of people seem to think it’s the perfect risotto rice it’s not ideal to make a good risotto! I usually try to stir it continuously though, maybe it’s just because I get nervous about it!! :)
LOVE the basic risotto recipe, that’s what I get as comfort food when I need to get something good for the soul!
Great post, thank you!
Vanessa

Sue Bette 11.06.08 at 1:55 am

Hi Tiffany - check back in tomorrow, I’ve got a great fall risotto combo on the way!

Hi Chefsquire - I’ve found that when I add a bit less liquid in the beginning and then build into adding more liquid toward the end (kind of like making mayonnaise) the risotto cooks faster. Also, I think the arborio takes longer than the carnaroli.

Hi Vanessa - thanks for the note, I’ve read about Vialone Nano but I haven’t run across it yet - so it is on my to find list. I am enjoying your website: http://www.italyinsf.com/

Kang 11.07.08 at 11:57 am

Absolutely love rissoto!

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