Red Kuri Squash & Roasted Fennel Soup

Sometimes I wonder if I am alone in my belief that a squash soup should not taste like a pumpkin pie.

This fall I’ve ordered a few squash soups while out and about and they have been filled with the usual pie suspects: cinnamon, nutmeg, and maple syrup (or an unusual suspect that keeps creeping in, the curry spice blend). All of these spices when used in moderation can really enhance a soup, but with the squash soups I tasted they really tended to mask, overpower, and even bring the dish into the pie dimension.

My mom had requested a squash soup for Thanksgiving dinner so I started a search for a recipe that avoided common pie components and that would wake up the squash without masking its flavor.  Surprisingly, there wasn’t much out there that didn’t include the suspects listed above - it seems that squash soups are really in a rut.

Luckily I found the answer to the squash soup rut with a recipe from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Supper at Luques, a cookbook that time and time again serves up delicious recipes inspired by the seasons (check out this warm delicata squash salad).

Chef Goin uses roasted fennel, fennel seeds, chili flakes, and a splash of sherry to bring in flavor, heat, and a dash of acid. The result? A very non-pie tasting squash soup that is both creamy and light on the palate - a perfect starter for any fall dinner or a delicious entree when paired with a salad and crusty bread.

For this recipe I used Red Kuri squash, which is what I had on hand from my Pete’s Greens CSA, but any squash variety will work so feel free to use butternut, kabocha, delicata, or hubbard. I topped the soup with a bit of creme fraiche that had a smidge of maple syrup (it’s nice as a garnish!) and a fried sage leaf.

red kuri squash soup with roasted fennel (adapted from sunday supper at luques)
(serves 4-6)

Soup:

• 2 pounds red kuri squash (or other variety)
• 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided)
• sea salt
• fresh ground black pepper
• 2 fennel bulbs, herby tops removed
• 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 onion, diced
• 1 tablespoon thyme (fresh)
• 1 teaspoon chili flakes
• 3/4 cups sherry
• 10 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock)

Garnish

• 1/4 cup creme fraiche
• 1 tablespoon maple syrup
• 6-8 sage leaves

To prepare the soup:
Preheat the oven to 400F.

Remove the peel and cut the squash in half lengthwise. Use a spoon to remove the seeds and discard. Slice the squash into 1/2″ thick wedges, place on a baking sheet. Season the squash with a generous pinch of sea salt, a crank of fresh ground pepper, and a splash of extra-virgin olive oil (about 2 tablespoons). Place in the oven and roast for 30 minutes.

Slice the fennel bulbs into 1/2 inch thick wedges. Pound the fennel seeds in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. On a baking sheet, combine the sliced fennel, fennel seeds, and minced garlic and season with a pinch of sea salt and 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Place in the oven and roast for 15 minutes.

When the squash and fennel are done roasting set a large, heavy bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the butter, onion, and a pinch of salt and saute until the onions are soft and begin to color. Add the thyme, chili flakes, roasted squash, and roasted fennel and stir to combine. Add the sherry and allow it to reduce for a minute or two and then add the stock. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to medium, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Use an immersion blender to puree the soup, or alternatively puree the soup in batches in a counter-top blender (being careful not to overload the blender with hot liquid). Blend until the soup is completely smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings.

To prepare the garnish
Combine the creme fraiche and maple syrup and place in the refrigerator. Set a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil and bring up to heat. Add the sage leaves and fry until they begin to crisp. Remove the sage leaves from the pan and transfer to a paper towel.

To serve
Pour the soup into bowls and garnish with a drizzle of creme fraiche & maple and top with a fried sage leaf.

More Squash Soups:

Bitten: 4 ingredient squash soup

La Tartine Gourmande: Winter Squash Soup

Smitten Kitchen: Winter Squash with Gruyere Croutons

Tagged as: small bites, soup