It’s gotten to the point that when I visit my friends in Vermont I have to make a reservation at Hen of the Wood - it is a restaurant that I just cannot pass up. A converted mill with a field stone-walled dining room that overlooks a waterfall, the whole vibe of the restaurant is rustic, casual and authentically Vermont. In his own words, Chef Warnstedt creates food that is:

• Simple, uncomplicated and down-to-earth. The uniqueness of our dishes comes from the depth of flavor found in each ingredient. We create menus based on the wealth of premium ingredients found only miles from the restaurant in the lush Green Mountains and Champlain Valley.

In an effort to recreate a bit of the Hen of the Wood experience back here in Berkeley, I stopped by the Temescal Farmer’s Market in Oakland on Sunday morning and picked up the ingredients for this radish salad (and some dearly missed Blue Bottle Coffee). This is a fun and quick salad to make, with the most time going to removing the peas from the pod. Of course, if you needed to make dinner quickly, you could substitute frozen peas (which many chefs stand behind). However, while frozen peas all arrive in a uniform size, the neat thing about fresh peas is that they are all a bit unique and range in size and shape. They just seem a bit more interesting and fun to enjoy fresh in the summer, so if you have the time, go for the fresh.

Before we get on to the recipe, let me dish a little bit about radishes. I have become a bit of a radish convert. I am not sure why I didn’t like them before (I really can’t pin it down) but now I crave the fresh, slightly bitter, peppery crunch that they offer. With their pungent flavor, radishes stimulate the appetite (thus perfect for salads and appetizers) and they support liver function by simulating the flow of bile. In this recipe I also incorporated the radish greens, which are also a bit peppery and lean toward the bitter end of salad greens. I found that by slicing the greens very thinly and adding the mustard vinaigrette it was a pleasing bitterness as opposed to a face-puckering bitterness. If the greens are a bit to bitter for you, try mellowing them out by stir-frying or adding them to soups.

Radish and Pea Salad (adapted from Hen of the Wood)

(serves 2)

• 1 bunch of radishes with greens attached
• 1 cup fresh peas (from about ½ pound whole pods)
• 1 small shallot, minced
• 1 teaspoon whole grain Dijon mustard
• ½ tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• a splash of walnut oil (optional)
• 1 teaspoon champagne vinegar
• sea salt
• fresh ground black pepper

Place a small pot of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Pod the peas. When the water has come up to a boil, add the peas and cook until they float (about 1-2 minutes). Using a slotted spoon or a spider, remove the peas from the water, place in a bowl and fill with cool water to stop the cooking (you may have to repeat this step or use an ice water bath). Drain the peas and set aside.

Vigorously soak and wash the radishes and greens (they tend to accumulate dirt). Remove the radish from the greens and slice very thinly, then set aside. Slice the radish greens thinly (chiffonade) and set aside.
In a large mixing bowl, add the shallot, mustard, olive oil, walnut oil, champagne vinegar, a pinch of sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Whisk vigorously so all of the dressing ingredients are incorporated. Taste to adjust any seasonings.

Add the radish greens to the dressing and then the radishes, using your hands to stir and incorporate. Plate the salad and then add the fresh peas over the top and along the side of the plate. Serve immediately.