last supper in berkeley: salmon with fruity mole

Like my friend Jim said, “It’s been a great run.” After two and a half years of California living, all of my gear is packed up and I have begun the trek back to Vermont. It’s not going to be easy trading in flip-flops and sunglasses for boots and a shovel but I am looking forward to changing seasons, rolling green mountains, and a slower pace.

What am I going to miss? Well that list is pretty long. First of all, great friends (the kind that volunteer to come over and help pack):

pod packers

Next would have to be the crazy bounty of Northern California where something delicious is always in season. Life was really difficult when I had to make the choice between five farmers’ markets each week, all offering produce that had just been picked, eggs and meats that were sustainably raised, and the best coffee ever.

Of course I can’t forget the Bay Area restaurant scene, a combination of top-notch chefs and top-notch produce. Here’s my Bay Area favorite 5:

1.    Chez Panisse
2.    Wood Tavern
3.    Boulevard
4.    Dona Tomas
5.    Delfina/A16

And then there is wine country, which is half the reason that my pod was so difficult to pack.  If you are planning a trip to Sonoma these are my can’t-miss tasting rooms:

1.    Dry Creek
2.    Iron Horse
3.    Navarro
4.    De Loach
5.    Unti

Hmmm, what else? I am sure mid-winter I am going to miss the Berkeley weather that is nearly perfect year-round. A lemon, pear, and pluot tree in the yard. The Speakeasy movie theater that offers cheap tickets AND beer. Taquerias. The list could go on and on.

Enough with the memories - let’s get on to the food! This salmon with fruity mole, or manchamanteles, is what we served at the last supper we had at the house. I adapted this recipe from Rosa’s Mexican Table, a new addition to my cookbook collection that already has quite a few dog-eared edges. This is a summery/tropical dish, so best to make it while the weather is still warm.

salmon con manchamanteles
(serves 4)

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 red onion, minced
• 6 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 28-ounce can fire roasted tomatoes, diced
• 4 chipotles in adobo, roughly chopped
• 1 apple, peeled, cored and ct into 1-inch chunks
• 1 pineapple, chopped into 1-inch chunks
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/3 cup agave nectar
• 1 ½ tablespoons apple cider vinegar
• Four 8-ounce skinless salmon fillets,  pinbones removed
• sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
• 1 tomato, chopped
• 1/2 cup cilantro, chopped
• 1 lime, quartered

Place a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and bring up to temperature. Add half of the minced onion, garlic, and a pinch of sea salt and sauté until softened, about 3-5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, chipotles, apple, ½ of the pineapple chunks, and cinnamon. Bring the tomato mixture up to a boil and then turn the heat to medium. Simmer for 20 minutes to allow the flavors to mingle and develop. Stir frequently.

Add the agave nectar and apple cider vinegar. Use an immersion blender to blend ingredients to a fine puree. Alternatively, you can blend in batches with a tabletop blender; be aware that the contents are hot so only fill the blender halfway. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Position a rack about 6-8 inches below the broiler and preheat the broiler on high.  Season the salmon filets with sea salt and fresh ground black pepper, and place them skin side down on the broiling pan. Broil for 7 minutes or until medium-rare with a light pink center.

In a small bowl combine the remaining onion and pineapple with the tomato, cilantro and a pinch of sea salt.

Plate the salmon and top with the manchamanteles sauce. Serve immediately and garnish with a lime wedge and the pineapple and tomato salad.

Coming soon on feelgood eats:

• my dispatch from life on the road: CA to VT in 5 days
• a new twist on nachos for your next football munching sessions

now it is time to hit the road!!

Tagged as: main course, seafood

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