In the last few days I have crawled through the Great Pyramid, driven through the desert to a vast oasis, learned to examine ancient hieroglyphics, and enjoyed the food and culture of Egypt.

We started our travels in Cairo, one of the most densely populated cities in the world with a population of 20 million that is growing exponentially. According to our guide, Egypt gains 1 million people every nine months, with many Egyptians migrating to the sprawling city. From Cairo we followed the Nile south toward Aswan, visiting ancient Egyptian tombs and temples.

The landscape drastically changed from urban to rural once we emerged out of Cairo, with farmers raising produce and fruit such as tomatoes, cabbage, mangoes, and bananas, and commodities such as sugar and papyrus. Most of the settlements south of Cairo are tightly situated along the shores of the Nile; beyond that is desert on both sides. The transition from fertile land to dry, arid dessert is immediate:

Egypt’s agricultural products are a major export, and they supply much of Europe with fresh produce in the colder months (similar to Mexico’s relationship with the United States). Transport of the crops from the farms to the city is done on a smaller scale (especially compared to the large trucks seen in the states), with small trucks zipping up and down the roadways:

The food has been incredibly fresh while I’ve been in Egypt and I’ve enjoyed delicious salads of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, and fresh cheeses that are similar to Greek feta. It has certainly been a nice getaway from the root vegetables that have dominated my winter meals at home! Interestingly, many of Egypt’s crops (besides new world additions like tomatoes) have remained the same since the ancient Egyptian empire, and the crops and produce are recognizable in the hieroglyphics carved into the temples and tombs.

Barbecue chicken has been the most popular item on Egyptian menus. According to our guide, it is also a typical meal in an Egyptian home. Even in the crowded neighborhoods of Cairo, Egyptians fire up indoor barbecues, leaving a smoky smell that moves throughout the city. The chicken is usually served with vegetables, rice, and flat bread (baladi).

Another popular menu item is Lebanese or Oriental Mezzeh, a tray of appetizers that includes stuffed grape leaves, hummus, baba ghanoush (mashed eggplant), tabbouleh (bulgur salad), kebbe (fried bulgur and minced lamb), and sambousek (fried stuffed pastry). Because of its location at the crossroads of both ancient and modern trade routes, Egypt’s foods have a mixed heritage and there are influences from Lebanese, Greek, Italian, and Morroccan cuisines.

The coffeehouse (abwa) is a major institution in Egypt, and throughout Cairo and the countryside you will find one on almost every street corner. Because of the Islamic religious practices, the coffeehouse tends to be more of a male meeting place. The coffee is prepared by boiling a very finely ground roasted coffee in a small pot, and is usually flavored with cardamom and sugar. It is thicker than the coffee served in the United States and looks almost like an espresso shot. Waterpipes or sheesha are also offered, along with tobacco that is usually sweetened by molasses or apple juice.

Egypt sits on one of the largest underground sources of freshwater in the world, but currently lacks the infrastructure to provide clean, safe water in both Cairo and the countryside. Thus, bottled water is everywhere and served up by international corporations like Coca-Cola and Nestle. As a traveler, the availability of bottled water has been a welcome necessity; however, I can’t help but worry about the environmental impact of the plastic since Egypt does not yet have a recycling system.

With the onset of modernization and the introduction of fast/industrial foods, diabetes has become a severe issue in Egypt. Sodas and processed foods are everywhere (along with the marketing that goes with them). While Egypt is a large producer of sugar, they still need to import more sugar to satisfy demand. It is a bit depressing to see the impact of multi-national corporations and industrial foodstuffs on an area that is blessed with an abundance of fruit and vegetables year-round.

Today we begin traveling further south toward the border of Sudan, visiting the area settled by the Nubians (historically thought to be the first people on Earth). Following our trip south we fly back to Cairo and up to Alexandria, visiting the cosmopolitan city on the Mediterranean established by Alexander the Great.

I’ll leave you with a parting shot of the Pyramid of Menkaure, the smallest of the three pyramids of Giza. In the forefront you will see a small camel caravan; not to spoil the fun, but it is actually a popular tourist ride and not a current practice in the area (although in the countryside camels and donkeys are still widely used). In the background you can make out the sprawling metropolis of Cairo, with rows of apartments and buildings that seem to go on forever.

Tagged as: travel

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