When I was growing up I wouldn’t have thought twice about a morning bagel, but in this post-Atkins, carb-phobic world I think we’re all a little squeamish about the role of grains in our diet.

One thing that cannot be denied is that grains have been a foundation of the human diet for over 10,000 years and many historians link the rise of civilization to the domestication of wild grasses into agricultural products. Basically, once grains were purposely planted into plots of land the hunter-gatherers were forced to stick around while they grew; the hunter-gatherers then became farmers and eventually towns, cities, and traffic jams developed.

Some modern day diets, such as the Paleolithic Diet, view this decision to farm grains as a great disaster, pointing to the few remaining hunter-gatherer tribes (and archeological evidence) as having a healthier diet that does not include grains. I think that promoters of the Paleolithic Diet have some valid points. The diet of hunter-gatherers is much more diverse than our modern diet, relying on wild plants, animal sources and fresh, seasonal, local foods - all good things. However, I worry that such a diet is unsustainable considering the modern population. Also, it would seem that a 10,000-year relationship between humans and grains is a pretty strong testimony that grains can be an important component in our diet.

Anatomy & Refinement of Grains

Before we further explore the component of grains in our diet, I think it is important to understand exactly what grains are and talk a bit about their anatomy. Grains (or cereals) are the seeds or kernels of plants in the grass family and are grown in a wide variety of climates and conditions. Here is a breakdown of the layers of a grain kernel:

• The outer husk (hull) is a hard and inedible covering that protects the seed. The hull is removed by grinding or threshing.
• The bran offers a few additional layers of protection and is an excellent source of minerals and B vitamins, as well as fiber.
• The germ is the “heart” of the kernel, and is rich in protein, enzymes and oil.
• The endosperm is the starchy center of the grain and is mostly made up of carbohydrates.

Until the last century, grains were consumed in their whole form (the inedible hull was removed through grinding). With the advent of modern technology, the kernel was broken down further and both the bran and germ was stripped. This refinement of the kernel has two main advantages:

• It allows for longer shelf life; both the bran and germ layers contain oils that go rancid and the endosperm is much more stable.
• The refined flour lends a much softer texture to baked goods.

The disadvantage of refined flour is that many of the key nutrients (proteins, fats and fiber) are stripped away, leaving the endosperm, which is made up mostly of starch/carbohydrates. In the 1940s, refined flour began to be “enriched” to make up for the nutrients that were lost in the refinement process. In addition, the flour is bleached through a chemical process to make it more visually appealing. Basically, what you get with refined flour is a 1940s science experiment that you get to put in your mouth.

Not only does the refined grain lack the full nutrient profile of the whole grain, but it also affects the body differently. Without the bran and the germ (and the valuable proteins, fats, vitamins and minerals they contain), your body is able to break down the starch of the endosperm quickly, releasing a sharp spike in blood sugar. Maintaining a steady blood sugar level is one of the most important keys to health.

The bottom line is that refined flours are empty foods, and the onset of refined flours in the last one hundred years has coincided with the onset of nutrition-related degenerative diseases - there is a strong argument for a connection between the two. In summary, it is best to avoid or limit refined flour products.

Whole Grains

Whole grains, or kernels processed with the bran and germ intact, offer a full spectrum of macronutrients, vitamins, and minerals. As noted by Dr. Murray in The Encyclopedia of Healing Foods:

• Whole grains provide substantially more phytochemicals, and possibly many unknown compounds with healing promoting properties as well. Instead of removing natural nutrients from the grains and adding back a small portion of synthetic counterparts, wouldn’t it make more sense to eat whole grains? (322)

The primary grains eaten today in the U.S.A. are wheat and corn, but there is a more diverse group of edible whole grains available including, amaranth, barley, buckwheat, kamut, millet, oats, quinoa, rice, rye, spelt, and teff. Each grain has a unique nutritional profile, so the inclusion of a variety of grains helps ensure a well-balanced diet.

Because grains contain oils they will go rancid much faster than the refined flour that is happy to sit in the pantry for years. It is best to buy whole grains from stores with high turnover and to store whole grains properly:

• Sealed, dark container in a cool, dry place: 3 months
• Sealed, dark container in refrigerator: 6 months
• Sealed in freezer: a year or more

Also, the type of mill that grinds the grain has an affect on performance, flavor and nutrition. Stone ground milling is superior because the layers are simply flaked off without overheating the grains.

Preparation of Whole Grains:

Cooking whole grains is the first step in making them bio-available (meaning that they can be absorbed and used by the body). When preparing whole grains it is important to follow a few steps before actually cooking the grains.

Rinsing

Whole grains have not been cleaned as part of the refining process so they must be rinsed thoroughly to remove dust. The following method is based on the method promoted by Lorna Sass:

• Measure the amount of grain you need.
• Pour the grain into a strainer and plunge the strainer up and down into a large bowl filled with water. Twirl the grain with your fingers to mix things up.
• Remove the strainer and place over the sink, give a rinse with running water. Drain the water from the large bowl and refill.
• Repeat the process until the water in the dunking bowl is almost clear.
• Let the grains drain in the strainer over the sink while you proceed with the recipe.

Soaking

The Weston A. Price Foundation (WAPF) recommends soaking grains before cooking. According to the director WAPF Sally Fallon in Nourishing Traditions:

• All grains contain phytic acid (an organic acid in which phosphorous is bound) in the outer layer or bran. Untreated phytic acid can combine with calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, and especially zinc in the intestinal tract and block absorption…soaking allows enzymes, lactobacilli, and other helpful organisms to break down and neutralize phytic acid. (p. 453)

Fallon also states that research shows traditional societies also soaked their grains before cooking (p. 452).

Beyond these natural foods authors, I haven’t found any scientific studies supporting soaking. However, it has been proven that soaking shortens cooking time. In my own practice, I believe that soaking grains is a good choice. Soaking definitely shortens cooking time and if it does enhance the nutritive properties and aid digestion, as the WAPF suggests, then that’s even better.

Soaking technique:

• Use 3 cups of filtered water for every cup of grain.
• Soak for eight hours or overnight.
• Drain soaked grains into a strainer over the sink and discard the soaking water.
• Add the soaked grains to a large heavy skillet over medium heat, and stir until all of the water has evaporated, gently toasting the grain.
• When cooking soaked grains, reduce cooking liquid by ¼ of a cup for each cup of soaked grains.

* I refrain from soaking quinoa because it quickly sprouts.

Cooking

Each grain is going to cook differently so it is best to follow instructions for that specific grain. Most whole grains take longer to cook and it is best to cook them low and slow. I prefer to use homemade broths when cooking grains because it enhances nutritive properties and taste (the gelatin in the broth may also aid digestion).

Eating

The second step of making whole grains bio-available is chewing. The digestive enzymes present in saliva are a key component to digestion. Some texts offer chewing at least thirty-two times before swallowing. Counting might seem a little radical, but next time you eat count how many times you normally chew, it will probably range from about five to ten times. So basically we can all chew more.

I also think that even whole grains are over-abundant in our modern diet and believe that leafy greens and other should also have some time to shine. Balance and moderation is really the key.

It is also important to note that gluten-sensitivity and celiac disease is growing health issue. Pay attention to how you feel after eating grains, especially wheat. If you have any concerns consult with your doctor or nutritionist

Resources:

Whole Grains Council
Weston A. Price Foundation

Finding Whole Grain Products:

Summer’s Sprouted Flour
Hodgson Mill
Bob’s Red Mill
King Arthur Flour

Books:

The New Whole Foods Encyclopedia - Rebecca Wood
Nourishing Traditions - Sally Fallon
Lorna Sass’s Complete Vegetarian Kitchen - Lorna Sass
The Encyclopedia of Healing Foods - Michael Murray